Bengal, a significant region in the south-eastern part of the Indian subcontinent, Bengal boasts of a unique and rich culture that dates back to almost 4000 years ago. This region has been a historic spot where indigenous traditions meet cosmopolitan influences. The culture has made a significant contribution to the Indian history. From having one of the most literary traditions in Asia to gracing the world with some of the prominent personalities in literature, music, art and fashion. One of the many works of arts that Bengal had graced us with is the art of Jamdani weaving.
What is Jamdani Weaving?
One of most artistic textile of the Bangladeshi weavers, Jamdani dates back to the 3rd century BC. It is a woven fabric in cotton. As one of the varieties of finest muslin, it is the most artistic textile of the Bangladeshi weavers. It is traditionally woven around the brocade loom and is considered the most time and labor-intensive forms of hand loom weaving.
Jamdani is believed to be a fusion of the ancient cloth-making techniques of Bengal with the muslins produced by Bengali Muslims.Though mostly used for saris, Jamdani is also used for scarves and handkerchiefs.
How Is Jamdani Made?
These sarees are woven on a brocade loom.This is a supplementary weft technique of weaving. Here the artistic motifs are produced by a non-structural weft, in addition to the standard weft that holds the warp threads together. The standard weft creates a fine, sheer fabric while the supplementary weft with thicker threads adds the intricate patterns to it. Each supplementary weft motif is added separately by hand interlacing the threads into the warp with fine bamboo sticks using individual spools of thread. The result is a myriad of vibrant patterns that appear to float on a shimmering surface.
Due to the popularity and growing influence of different regions the sarees can be classified based on the type of motifs or the region they were produced in. The regional variations include:
Dhaniakhali (India)
Shantipur (India)
Dhakai (Bangladesh)
Tangail (Bangladesh)
This remarkable piece of fabric has truly left a mark in the Indian cultural as well as the fashion history.
